New York Magazine’s The Cut has a great slideshow retrospective of the Fashion Week that was. Click here for their top twenty beauty looks from NYFW, Fall 2009.
Mark your calendar for this week’s amazing sales at ideeli.com…
Marquis & Camus
Starts Tue 3/3
Prices Start at: $69 (save up to 72%)
Sometimes you have to look to the past for clues about the future, and when you get really lucky, you find treasures from yesterday that become part of who you are today. Enter Marquis & Camus, a jewelry collection that masterfully remixes vintage pieces with the finest modern materials to create a whole new take on timeless couture. This event is scheduled to start on Tuesday, March 3 at 11am for 1st Row members, noon for 2nd Row members. This event will run for 36 hours, or until it sells out.
Starts Tue 3/3
Prices Start at: $144 (save up to 59%)
The roaring ’20s brought a new lease on life and a fierce take on fashion to people around the world. Catching this creative momentum, Aldo and Margherita Furlanetto founded a small leather goods company in the stylish city of Bologna, a small company called Furla, whose buttery leather handbags would soon come to represent the ultimate in feminine luxury. This event is scheduled to start on Tuesday, March 3 at 11am for 1st Row members, noon for 2nd Row members. This event will run for 36 hours, or until it sells out.
Starts Wed 3/4
Prices Start at: $659 (save up to 61%)
Rinkel’s no-fear attitude led to a unique blend of classic and contemporary design elements, rekindling a love affair with high-drama style. Streamlined shapes in rich jewel-tones unite the collection; however, because, like fingerprints, every crocodile skin is unique, no two bags are exactly alike. And understanding the value of these beautiful creatures, Rinkel is registered with CITES, designating 5% of its annual sale earnings for the preservation of the species and its ecosystem in Columbia. Combining pure glamour with environmental responsibility, Rinkel celebrates bold beauty and gives a modern-day meaning to the term “crocodile rock.” This event is scheduled to start on Wednesday, March 4 at 11am for 1st Row members, noon for 2nd Row members. This event will run for 36 hours, or until it sells out.
Starts Thurs 3/5
Prices Start at: $489 (save up to 70%)
For spring Escada is serving up more of that fearless style straight to your wardrobe, each piece a winning combination of classic shapes and of-the-moment slickness. Intricate detailing combined with stunning prints and colors make for a show-stopping collection. Whether these designs show up on the red carpet or the city streets, there’s no denying– Escada’s fans are right on the money.This event is scheduled to start on Thursday, March 5 at 11am for 1st Row members, noon for 2nd Row members. This event will run for 36 hours, or until it sells out.
Starts Friday 3/6
Prices Start at: $277 (save up to: 51%)
Becky eschews current jewelry trends and opts to find inspiration in her own family jewels and in her travels to Morocco, Asia, and Turkey. Her timeless designs feature gems like topaz, citrine, opal, and amethyst, set in yellow gold and sterling silver to exude an antique, yet whimsical quality. This event is scheduled to start on Friday, March 6 at 11am for 1st Row members, noon for 2nd Row members. This event will run for 3 days, or until it sells out.
To join Ideeli (membership is free), visit ideeli.com and enter spoiledpretty as your invite code.
“So the face is highlighted and shaded. We’re doing a greasy, taupe-y eye with highlights on the cheeks and a pale lip. The only specification Reem had for the makeup was to make the girls look beautiful. The entire look took about a half hour to conceive because it’s very simple and easy.”
To replicate the look, prep the face with MAC Face and Body Foundation. Then apply MAC Butter Nutty Shadestick to temples, bridge of the nose, and chin. Brush MAC Powder Blush in Taupe on eyelids and under eyes, MAC Nylon Eye Shadow in the inner corners of the eyes, and MAC Root Cream Colour Base under eyes. Layer MAC Gloss Texture on top of the Root Cream Colour Base – then curl lashes and coat with MAC Mascara X in Black.
When I approached Laurent Philippon, Lead Hairstylist for Bumble and bumble, he was scrambling because the electricity had gone out – which left him and his team without power for their styling tools. But he was so calm and gracious, and gave me his full attention for a quick interview.
“This is a red carpet kind of hairstyle. Reem wanted something quite sophisticated. It’s a side chignon with a really, really low side part. It frames the face and brings a geometrical shape to the hairstyle, but with softness as well. It’s a very clean and finished hairstyle but it’s not glued. I don’t want it to look glued. I still want it to feel like it’s hair. We’re drawing the part with a comb, then using Styling Lotion and drying hair really flat. And we’re putting it into a side ponytail – no backcombing involved. The twist is really about securing it with large pins. So it’s really tight, but it doesn’t look tight.”
Angi Wingle, and her team of Creative Nail Design technicians, put the finishing touches on models’ tips and toes. The nails were filed to a naturally rounded shape (to echo the bustlines of Reem’s draped gowns) and polished with a coat of Cocoa.
For her Fall 2009 collection, Lela Rose drew inspiration from the rainforest – and the creepy crawlies that call it home. To help transform the models into chic, tropics-trekking entomologists, Lela enlisted the help of two of the biggest names in the beauty business.
Celebrity makeup artist Tina Turnbow (for Beauty.com) used products from Stila Cosmetics to reinforce the rainforest theme. Tina prepped the skin with Sheer Color Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15, Perfecting Concealer and Sheer Pressed Powder.
“The skin is fresh and dewy, not dead and matte,” Tina explained. “I’m so excited to have the skin be healthy and shiny and glowing.”
When I asked if dewy skin was an emerging trend for Fall, Tina confessed that she’s ready to see the skin again. “I love the idea of sheen. I love seeing the skin, and powder usually takes that away. This morning, we’re only applying powder to the t-zone.”
Cheeks were earthily flushed, using Convertible Color in Camellia and pouts glossed with Lip Glaze in Praline. Eyeshadow in Constellation and Venus (new shades) were brushed over brows and high on the cheekbones to give the face definition and impart a jungle-like wetness to the look.
I wasn’t surprised to see mane magician Ted Gibson backstage, as he and Lela love to collaborate. For the past two seasons, I have chatted with Ted backstage at Lela Rose – and he always serves up something fierce.
Every fashion week, I am amazed by his conceptual (yet accessible) hairstyles…and this season’s coiffure made me heart Ted all the more.
To create the insect-inspired do, Ted created a center part, then swept hair back into a “youthful ponytail.” The voluminous crown was created using Build It. Tame It Shine Lotion smoothed the hair and calmed flyaways. The ponytail was coiled and blasted with heat from a hair dryer (air concentrator nozzle on), to give the hair texture.
Finally, the twisted tail was set with Beautiful Hold Hairspray, which smells so wondorous that you want to spray it on – whether or not your hair needs help staying put.
On Monday, I traveled to The Horticultural Society in NYC to report from backstage at Bodkin, a still relatively green collection – designed in accordance with principles of sustainability in materials and production methods. For the Fall 2009 line, Bodkin found a natural partner in Aveda, a brand that strives to set an example for environmental leadership and responsibility – not just in the world of beauty, but around the world.
“The idea was a little bed-heady…a little like a girl has been outside all day and her hair is a little wind-blown, but at the same time very healthy and very well taken care of. It looks shiny and it looks glossy, but it doesn’t look overworked or overdone. Like she cares but she doesn’t care too much – so kind of that balance. So the idea was we just put a very loose, loose wave in there with some Volumizing Tonic and then we finished it, actually, with the men’s grooming cream to give it a little bit of texture and some shine.”
For Fall 2009, John said, “A lot of people are putting ponytails in the hair. I think we’re really seeing cleaner hair. The last couple of seasons, we’ve seen really textured, really frizzy, really fuzzy hair…almost like the girl didn’t care at all. And I think as the economy sort of changes, people want to look and feel more put-together – and so the hairstyles are really reflecting that…a little cleaner, a little more refined.”
Andrea Harrison, lead makeup artist for Aveda described the Bodkin Fall 2009 look as really simple and pretty. “She’s so naturally gorgeous. She really has been running around all day…with cold, flushed pretty cheeks. No powder on her skin. Just a very healthy, very natural kinda dewy skin. On the eyes, there’s a light, shimmer. You can really see the skin through it. It’s our Moonstone shimmer, and it’s nice and really smooth. Black mascara just on the top lashes. Just a polished brow which is just really lightly filled in…nothing that you would really look at and say, ‘Oh, that’s hard.’ And Berry Lip Tint on the lips, so it’s very fresh – again, like she’s just been running around. Just an easy look that anybody could duplicate quickly. It would be great for young girls, older, anybody.”
When asked about key trends for Fall 2009, Andrea said, “One thing that you’re seeing everywhere is that the models are all growing out their eyebrows. It seems like another popular trend is, instead of, a smoky eye and a dark lip – you just see one feature that they’ve picked to focus on. Whether it’s eyebrows or just cheeks or just mascara or just lips. So instead of having the full complicated look. So it would be great for everybody. Good for the average woman to pick their favorite feature.”
Before concluding the interview, I asked Andrea to name three Aveda products that every women should have in her beauty arsenal. “One thing is for certain when it comes to makeup…the key to good makeup is beautiful skin. So you always want to make sure that you’re using great skin products. I personally love our Tourmaline Charged Hydrating Creme. I use that on every model before a photo shoot or runway just because you can always add powder if you feel like it’s too much, but it really just makes the makeup go on beautifully. The other thing is mascara…to me, it can make a look that on it’s own. Sometimes you don’t need to anything else. And skin…I really see that being a trend. I love our Tinted Moisturizer; it’s got SPF 15 in it and it’s nice because you can still the skin underneath it. So anybody can wear it easily. Just make sure you match your skin tone. It’s nice and sheer, so everybody can find their skin tone easily.”
Backstage at Donna Karan, I chatted up lead makeup artist, Charlotte Tilbury about the vision and aesthetic. “The look today at Donna Karan came to be because we were looking at these 1920′s and 30′s sepia-toned photographs, and I just loved that there was something modern about it. So we wanted to translate that to a modern Donna Karan girl,” Charlotte explained. “We put gloss on the eye, which has a little bit of sepia and black in it, with flecks of gold through it. And it’s wet, so it’s a modern texture. It goes all the way up to the eyebrow and there’s no form to it…it’s just a great big shadow with a wet, modern texture. We’re brushing up the eyebrows. We’re highlighting the top of the cheekbones and the nose with an iridescent cream (Cream Colour Base in Pearl), which brings a wonderful light to the face. And we’re putting a little bit of a beige-y kind of lipstick (Half And Half Lipstick) – very neutral, quite light on the lips. And a tiny bit of the Reflects highlighter on the bow of the lips.”
Victor continued, “We’re also doing really beautiful skin; skin that just shines with the light, no matter what direction you turn. It’s like, again, 1930′s Hollywood headshots. On the lip, it’s lightly natural with a little bit of shimmer on the bow of the lip.”
When I asked Victor about trends for fall, he replied, “I see a lot of black being used. I’m calling it ‘perfect penmanship.’ I’m going to try to create that as a trend, myself, because a lot of the lines have been perfect and very graphic. Last season, the look was Kate Moss, rock and roll – like she slept in her makeup. Now it’s all about graphic precision, which I think is going to be an emerging trend.”
For Baby Phat Fall 2009, Kimora Lee Simmons’ muse was the First Lady. “The inspiration is very sexy, curly hair but the length is Michelle Obama,” said Odile Gilbert, lead hairstylist. To achieve the look, models’ hair was put in rollers, teased within an inch of its life and shellac-ed with hairspray. When I asked if big hair will be a trend for fall, Odile cheekily answered, “It’s always a trend.”
“We’re inspired by Michelle Obama,” said James Kaliardos, lead artist for MAC. “I mean, when else can you be inspired by a First Lady? I think she’s so inspiring and so great and so stylish. And she wears Isabella Toledo. Kimora wanted a soft, pretty, classic look. It’s like a soft, pretty peachy version. There’s a little glamour and a little glitter on the eyelid, which Michelle probably won’t do…so it’s a soft, pretty sculpted beautiful look. It’s not as over the top…last time it was Cher, and that’s like hyper glam. This is a little bit more pulled back, a little bit more sophisticated. We’re scuplting and shaping under the cheekbones and in the crease of the eyelid.”
To create the Michelle-inspired makeup, makeup artists used Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation, gold eye shadow, Cremesheen Glass lipgloss in Partial Pink, Pink Swoon Powder Blush and Zoom Lash Mascara. Individual eyelashes were applied to create a feathery and soft effect, which is “less drag queeny than a full strip,” James explained.
Angi Wingle from CND called the Baby Phat Fall 2009 nail look “All-American girl with edge.” “The theme is the Great Depression,” she said…so the nails had a pearlized metallic finish – which was achieved by layering Gold Chrome (to be released in Fall 2009) over Iced Capuccino. The nails were meant to look like jewelry…”to accent the collection, like buttons on a jacket.”